Why Is Brooklyn Barbecue Taking Over the World?

Munchies | 3/4/2018 | Staff
hubbog (Posted by) Level 3
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After sitting down at the restaurant Pork in Barcelona, a long menu describing different preparations of pork is set before me. There is charcuterie made from Iberian pigs, various types of dry-aged sausages and chorizos, and slow cooked and grilled pork. Everything is sold by weight. There are also hanging Edison bulbs and the beer, brewed in conjunction with a cult brewer in Liverpool, is served by the jar or by growler. There are butcher knife tap handles in front of white subway tiles. After the waitress explains the menu to me, she says a restaurant in New York was the inspiration.

"In Brooklyn?" I ask.


She nods.

"Fette Sau?"

Time - Year

She nods again. I'm not surprised. This is the third time I've heard this in a year.

Fette Sau in Brooklyn. All photos by the author.

North - Brooklyn - Fette - Sau - Right

While I live in North Brooklyn and go to Fette Sau fairly regularly, is this right? Barbecue's Southern roots and finest pitmasters are a long way from New York, even though the city has grown by leaps and bounds in terms of its barbecue pedigree in recent years. Especially in Brooklyn. It's almost impossible to walk between Bedford Avenue and the East River without sniffing mesquite smoke. Since Fette Sau opened in 2007, nearly a dozen others have followed, several with pitmasters recruited from Central Texas or Kansas City. There's the excellent BrisketTown down the street from Fette Sau and Mighty Quinn's, who slings brisket or pulled pork sandwiches from a stand at Smorgasburg (as well as in a newer sit-down spot in Manhattan). There's Hometown Bar-B-Que in Red Hook, Fletcher's in Gowanus, and many others. The décor, for the most part, fits with a wider Brooklyn theme of details like subway tiles, exposed brick walls, Edison light bulbs and lengthy lists of craft beer and small batch bourbons. Brooklyn...
(Excerpt) Read more at: Munchies
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