Variations in seafloor create freak ocean waves

phys.org | 2/1/2019 | Staff
baileyboo (Posted by) Level 3
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Florida State University researchers have found that abrupt variations in the seafloor can cause dangerous ocean waves known as rogue or freak waves—waves so catastrophic that they were once thought to be the figments of seafarers' imaginations.

"These are huge waves that can cause massive destruction to ships or infrastructure, but they are not precisely understood," said Nick Moore, assistant professor of mathematics at Florida State and author of a new study on rogue waves.

Study - Physical - Review - Fluids

The study is published in the journal Physical Review Fluids.

Once regarded as a myth, these waves have stumped the scientific community for several decades.

Years - Researchers - Globe - Number - Factors

Over the years, researchers across the globe have examined a number of different factors they thought might contribute to these waves, including the seafloor, wind excitation and a phenomenon called Benjamin-Feir where deviations from a periodic waveform are reinforced by nonlinearity.

Most of the studies that focused on the seafloor considered only gentle slopes, and the few studies that pushed the slopes to greater extremes relied primarily on computer simulations.

Underrepresentation - Real-world - Data - Laboratory - Experiments

"There was a relative underrepresentation of real-world data that you can get from laboratory experiments, where you can carefully control the various factors," Moore said. "Often you need this real-world data to see whether the computer simulations are giving you sensible predictions at all."

Moore's laboratory experiments were the first to examine the effect of abrupt seafloor variations on wave statistics.

FSU - Geophysical - Fluid

Along with FSU's Geophysical Fluid...
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